If you've ever had to hoist a heavy steel gate without working big tex trailer ramp springs, you know exactly why these little coils of steel are so important. It's one of those things you don't really think about until they snap. One day you're loading your mower or skid steer with ease, and the next, you're straining your back just to get the ramp off the ground. Big Tex builds a solid trailer, but like any piece of equipment that sees heavy use, the torsion springs eventually wear out or break under the constant tension.
Why Your Ramp Springs Give Out
It's pretty simple math when you think about it. Those springs are under a massive amount of torque every single time the ramp is in the upright position. Then, you lower it, and they stretch or compress further. Over a few years of hauling, that metal gets tired. This is especially true if you live somewhere where the roads get salted in the winter. Corrosion is the silent killer of big tex trailer ramp springs. Rust eats into the surface of the spring, creating tiny stress points where a crack can start.
Usually, you'll hear it when it happens. There's a loud bang that sounds like a gunshot coming from the back of the truck. If you're lucky, it happens while the trailer is just sitting there. If you're unlucky, it happens right as you're lifting the ramp. Suddenly, that 80-pound chunk of steel feels like it weighs 200 pounds.
Identifying the Right Replacement
Not all springs are created equal. Big Tex uses a few different styles depending on whether you've got a little utility trailer or a massive dual-tandem gooseneck. Before you go ordering parts, you need to look at what you've currently got installed.
Most of these are torsion springs, and they come in "left-hand" and "right-hand" versions. This is where a lot of guys get tripped up. If you put a left-hand spring on the right side, it's going to unwind itself or snap almost immediately. You can usually tell by looking at the direction of the coils. If you're standing behind the trailer, the spring on the left side of the ramp hinge usually has the "tail" pointing a certain way to catch the frame.
Measuring the Wire Diameter
Another big factor is the thickness of the wire. You'll see big tex trailer ramp springs with 1/2-inch wire, 9/16-inch, or even 5/8-inch for the really heavy-duty ramps. Don't just guess on this. Grab a pair of calipers if you have them. If you buy a spring that's too weak, the ramp will still feel heavy. If you get one that's too beefy, the ramp might want to fly up and hit you in the face, which isn't exactly a great outcome either.
The Process of Swapping Them Out
I won't lie to you—replacing these can be a bit of a physical chore. It's not complex, but it requires some muscle and a bit of caution. You're dealing with a lot of stored energy, so you have to be smart about it.
Getting the Hinge Pin Out
The first hurdle is almost always the hinge pin. Big Tex usually runs a long steel rod through the ramp and the trailer frame to act as the pivot point. Over time, road grime and moisture weld that pin into place with rust.
You're going to want to soak that thing in a good penetrating oil—something like PB Blaster or WD-40 Specialist—a day before you plan to do the work. Once it's soaked, you'll likely need a heavy sledgehammer and a drift punch to knock it through. Pro tip: if the pin is really stuck, a little bit of heat from a torch can do wonders, but be careful not to cook the paint too badly if you care about how the trailer looks.
Sliding the New Springs On
Once the pin is out, the ramp is basically disconnected. This is a good time to have a buddy help you. You'll want to slide the pin back through the frame, slide your new big tex trailer ramp springs onto the pin, and then continue through the ramp hinge.
The tricky part is getting the "legs" of the spring tucked into the right spots. One leg usually rests against the trailer frame, while the other hooks onto the ramp itself. You have to position the spring so that when the ramp is down, the spring is being wound up. That's what provides the "lift" when you go to pick it back up.
Safety First (Seriously)
I can't stress this enough: be careful with the tension. When you're trying to line up that hinge pin while the spring is trying to push back, it's easy to pinch a finger or have a pry bar slip. I've seen guys try to use a screwdriver to leverage the spring into place, only for it to snap back and hit them. Wear heavy gloves and eye protection. It sounds like something your dad would nag you about, but when a high-tension steel coil lets loose, you'll be glad you had them on.
Maintenance to Make Them Last
If you just spent the afternoon sweating and swearing while putting in new big tex trailer ramp springs, you probably don't want to do it again for a long time. The best thing you can do is keep them greased.
Most Big Tex trailers have grease zerks on the hinges. Use them! Pumping a little bit of heavy-duty lithium grease into those hinges once or twice a year keeps the pin from rusting and reduces the friction on the spring itself. Also, if you notice the paint chipping off the springs, hit them with a quick coat of black spray paint. Preventing rust is 90% of the battle when it comes to spring longevity.
Where to Buy Your Parts
You've got a couple of options here. You can go straight to a Big Tex dealer. This is usually the safest bet because they can look up your trailer's VIN and tell you exactly which part number you need. It's a bit more expensive, but you know it's going to fit.
The other option is looking online. There are plenty of aftermarket companies making big tex trailer ramp springs. They're often a bit cheaper, and as long as you match the dimensions (inside diameter, wire thickness, and length), they'll work just fine. Just make sure you're reading the reviews. You don't want a "bargain" spring that loses its tension after three months of use.
Signs You Need New Springs Soon
You don't always have to wait for the spring to break to know it's time for a change. If you notice your ramps are starting to feel "dead"—meaning they don't have that springy assist they used to—the metal is likely fatigued.
- Sagging: If the ramp doesn't stay tucked tightly against the bump stops when it's pinned up.
- Visible Cracks: If you see any hairline fractures in the coils, change them immediately.
- Uneven Lift: If one ramp feels significantly heavier than the other, one of your springs is likely on its last legs.
Wrapping It Up
At the end of the day, big tex trailer ramp springs are a consumable part. They aren't meant to last forever, especially if you're using your trailer every day for work. Replacing them is just part of the deal of owning a trailer.
It might seem like a hassle to deal with a rusted hinge pin and heavy steel coils, but compared to the cost of a back injury from lifting a dead ramp, it's a small price to pay. Grab a couple of new springs, find a heavy hammer, and get it done on a Saturday morning. Your lower back will thank you the next time you have to load up and head to the job site. Once you get the hang of it, it's a straightforward job that keeps your trailer functioning exactly the way it was designed to.